Twenty years of Dolce & Gabbana PDF Print E-mail
Written by Simon Chilvers   
Wednesday, 23 June 2010 10:37

Dolce & Gabbana's collection, spring/summer 2011Bleached and shredded low-rise jeans, statement narrow suiting, vests-as-daywear, ritzy shoes and designer sportswear. If you think your wardrobe hasn't been influenced by the Italian dream team of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana over the last two decades, then you'd better think again.

Last weekend, the duo celebrated their 20th anniversary of menswear with an exhibition of their work in Milan's City Hall and the launch of not one but three new retrospective books. On Saturday they presented their spring/summer 2011 men's collection, Sicilian Sensuality, to an audience including Hollywood A-listers Morgan Freeman, Chace Crawford and Matthew McConaughey, star of their The One fragrance ads. The show, with a live soundtrack from Annie Lennox, featured an army of the finest male models sporting house signatures, from double-breasted suiting, to soft layered knits, drawstring trousers worn with singlet vests and, of course, clingy trunks and pants.

The Dolce & Gabbana aesthetic is divisive. One colleague described it, rather bluntly, as "rich and Eurotrashy – the sort of thing you'd expect to see on a Saturday night in a club in Monaco". Others may consider it to be that quintessential dressy Italian look. But I happen to think all Dolce & Gabbana clothing is sprayed with some sort of special fashion sex dust – I recently tried on one of its blazers and it gave me an instantly puffed-out chest. The furnishings at the Old Bond Street store sum up the label's macho-glam attitude for me: there are high-gloss masculine black fittings throughout, with a sumptuous black velvet curtain hanging from the changing-room door.

The Dolce catwalk might be famous for shirts unbuttoned to the naval and six packs accessorised with crocodile manbags, but what the brand really offers, and the secret to its success, is wearable clothes.

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Emporio Armani's men's nazi SS 2011 collection PDF Print E-mail
Written by Joel Nikolaou   
Tuesday, 22 June 2010 10:10

Emporio Armani Men SS 2011 CollectionEmporio Armani brought out the Blackshirts. Emporio Armani presented the most overt nazi fashion show ever shown on the runway. Benito Mussolini would be proud. Black leather uniforms that came down the runway were the hallmark of the German gestapo.

The Blackshirts were fascist paramilitary groups in Italy. Mussolini's Blackshirts were organized by Benito Mussolini. Mussolini's Blackshirts used intimidation and violence, and murder against his opponents, on his rise to power. Hitler's nazi's SS had a similiar aesthetic. The Blackshirts that Armani is referencing stand for murder, and violence. One of their distinctive techniques was force-feeding castor-oil often laced with petrol down their victoms throat.

Do people realize what this style/fashion is referencing? Are we that devoid of ethics/values that this is now acceptable. What does that say about today's culture? What kind of fashion statement is this? The idealization of nazi style has been growing  the last couple of years. Nazi style was used in Luchino Visconti's film 'The Damned', in 1969 but it wasn't glorified; it honestly dealt with it in context. He was villified at the time and the movie was initially banned in America.

There is no context here. It's mindless, and offensive. Luchino Visconti, an Italian Duke, knew what fascism was; he and many others at the time condemned it. If you think this is cool, do you think concentration camps were cool? Fascist fashion. Nazi ideology and stylization was well understood by Luchino Visconti. He knew that  hitler had an artists eye. The aesthetics are quite chic. All black. Hitler was a failed artist. Hitler was denied admittance to the Vienna Academy of Art in 1905. The Academy gave two grades in their review for admittance; "Satisfactory", and "Unsatisfactory". Hitler received a curt letter from the Academy stating bluntly- "Unsatisfactory". Denied Admission (you aren't worthy). It's a cold cruel world, and nobody cares. He gave back to this heartless world a thousandfold.  Hitler never recovered from this rejection. This anger and resentment was especially aimed at this intellectual artistic world he wanted so much to be a part of. Revenge is sweet. Revenge is cruel. The jewish intellectuals of the Academy represented the elitist world that he especially hated.

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Suits you, madam! The clothes designed for butch lesbians PDF Print E-mail
Written by Julie Bindel   
Monday, 21 June 2010 09:47

Shaz, of the Butch Clothing Company Photograph: Christian Sinibaldi for the GuardianHaving been called a "butch dyke" by some men in the past who take umbrage at my refusal to adorn myself with feminine apparel and makeup, I appreciate that, at least when applied to women, "butch" is meant as an insult. But Shaz Riley , who describes herself proudly as a "butch lesbian", is hoping to challenge the stigma: this week she launches the first ever clothing line aimed at butch women.

The Butch Clothing Company is a dream she has harboured for a quarter century. "All those years of having to wear men's clothes will be behind me now. BCC will make a lot of butch women happy. If they have ever had to put up with negativity from people because of being butch, my clothes will give them the confidence to hold their heads up high."

When I meet her she is resplendent in one of her designs, a single-breasted charcoal suit, white shirt and purple tie, her spiky hair gelled to the nines, and reeking of aftershave. "Butches don't want to be or look like men; we just don't want to wear female clothing," Riley says.

BCC is based in Brighton, with consultation rooms in the Lanes. It offers bespoke handmade clothing. There will be shorts, trousers and T-shirts, but the main focus is on formal wear (with civil partnerships in mind). Riley pledges to meet and measure each customer personally. Prices start from £240 for a suit, £75 for cotton shirts and £110 for waistcoats.

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